The words ‘acid’ and ‘skincare’ don’t seem to go together somehow, says Shobhana at Shobhana Beauty Studio, but many skincare products contain different types of acid that are safe to use and offer incredible benefits when tackling various skin concerns.

Understanding the two types of acid

Two types of acid are used in skincare products, explains Shobhana:

AHA — Alpha Hydroxy Acid

  • Water-soluble acids made from plants such as citrus fruits, grapes and sugarcane.
  • Great for peeling away the skin’s surface and allowing fresh new skin cells to form.

BHA — Beta Hydroxy Acid

  • Naturally occurring oil-soluble acids — for example, salicylic acid from willow bark.
  • Penetrates more deeply to remove dead skin cells and excess oil.

How are they used in skincare?

Products containing AHA can help:

Reduce the appearance of fine lines, age spots, melasma and scars; treat enlarged pores; even out skin tone; treat dry skin; and combat the effects of ageing.

Products containing BHA can help:

Treat acne, clear pores, reverse the effects of sun damage, and calm inflammation.

“Both types exfoliate the skin and can be found in products such as cleansers, toners, scrubs, peels, masks and moisturizers,” says Shobhana.

“It is possible to use both types in combination, but always be careful when doing this to avoid dryness and irritation. Always ask us for expert advice when using products containing acids.”

Some typical acid ingredients

Shobhana talks through some of the more commonly used acids:

Citric acid

An AHA derived from oranges and lemons, used to exfoliate, clean pores, even out skin tone and make the skin feel smoother.

Glycolic acid

Another commonly used AHA, made from sugarcane. It exfoliates, targets signs of ageing, and works well for a range of skin problems.

Ferulic acid

A key anti-ageing AHA ingredient. This plant-derived acid helps treat and prevent sun damage, fine lines, age spots and wrinkles.

Salicylic acid

The BHA most commonly used in skincare, derived from willow bark. It treats acne, sun damage and age spots, and helps calm redness and reduce inflammation.

Hyaluronic acid

This isn’t actually an AHA or BHA, so the word ‘acid’ is slightly misleading, says Shobhana. It occurs naturally in the body and is a nourishing, hydrating, plumping ingredient used in moisturizers and serums.

“The right acid, in the right strength, can transform your skin — but professional guidance and daily SPF are non-negotiable.”

Take professional advice

With acid-based skincare products it’s always important to test out small areas of skin first when trying new products, advises Shobhana. Always have a professional consultation.

You may also need to be more careful with some acid products if you have dry or sensitive skin.

It’s also vital to use at least an SPF 30+ sunscreen every day when using skincare products that contain acids, as they can increase sensitivity and make you more prone to sunburn.

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